Frilled To Bits: Breeding Frill-Necked Lizards

In June 1995 I decided to initiate a breeding program for Frill-necked lizards (Chlamydosaurus kingii)

by David Klier (Originally published in Monitor Vol. 9 No. 2 April 1998 Housing).

I had 8 Frill-necked lizards from the Northern Territory, 6 of which were old enough to breed; of these 2 were females, the remaining 4 were males. The adults were between 14 months and 5 years of age.

The breeding colony of the frill-necked lizards was housed in a cage 7 foot (210cm) long and 5 foot (150cm) high and 3 foot (90cm) in depth. Heating was supplied by 6 globes and was thermostatically controlled. In addition to this, one 4 foot double florescent was installed to provide UV and full spectrum lighting; all of this was controlled by a timer.

Upright vertical branches were supplied for the frill-necked lizards to perch on. The branches were placed so the Frill-Necked Lizards could bask close to the heat source. The substrate consisted of a fine red soil about 1 inch deep.

Since the original housing arrangements I’ve extended the herp house and built a new indoor/outdoor enclosure for the Frill-Necked Lizards. The dimensions now being 12 foot (3600cm) long, 7 foot (210cm) deep and 7 foot (210cm) high. The enclosure is fully insulated with a large window on the northern side for sun. It has a skyroof with a sliding door to close, in cold conditions. All windows are fully insulated. The enclosure is heated with 6 x 250 watt heating lamps, five are mounted on the ceiling and one mounted part of the way down one wall, as well as natural sunlight. Heating is controlled by a thermostat.

A misting system was installed overhead to increase humidity during the wet season, which is controlled by a timer.

The enclosure is landscaped with numerous branches and indoor plants, example: indoor fig trees, grass trees, palms etc. As well as the Frill-Necked Lizards being housed in the enclosure there are four adult Land Mullets (Egernia major) and two adult Gidgee Skinks (Egernia stokesii) all of which seem to get along with each other.

Breeding Initiation of the Frill-Necked Lizards

On the 1st of June, 1995 I decided to cool the Frill-Necked Lizards and decrease their daylight hours. I cooled them down to a daylight temperature of approximately 29°C and the nightly temperature to approximately 18°C. The timer was set for a nine hour day and a fifteen hour night. I kept this procedure going for the months of June and July. The humidity in the cage was approximately 34%. During this time the cage was kept dry with no water spraying. The Frill-Necked Lizards were given water directly from a small bottle every 2 to 3 days.

On the 1st of August, 1995 daylight hours were increased to 12 hours. The temperature was increased to approximately 33°C in daylight and 22°C at night. I began spraying the cage twice weekly. This procedure was done by using a 2 litre pressure pump spray bottle. The entire cage was sprayed, including the walls, branches, ground and lizards, with about 1 litre of water. This increased the humidity to approximately 50%. On the 12th of September daily spraying commenced, thus increasing the humidity to between 70 and 80%.

Frill-Necked Lizards: Mating

I first noticed mating behavior towards the end of August from one of the smaller males, this consisted of the head bobbing, with frill extended and circular arm waving motion. However, this lasted only a couple of days due to another male being more dominant, this male was the same age but a lot larger. Although I never witnessed any fight between these two males I believe there would have been a fight or conflict of sorts for dominance. From that point in time the larger male had complete control over the other 3 males, who would shy away whenever the large male would begin his mating.

Since daily spraying began mating behavior had increased to a high level with the large male bobbing his head and waving his arm regularly throughout the day.

The females would respond by pointing their nose straight up in the air, waving their arm in a circular motion and lifting their bodies up on all four legs.

The male was observed chasing the females on a number of occasions. On the 22nd of September 1995, I witnessed copulation between the dominant male and the youngest female (17 months old, length in total was 19 inches (47.5cm)).

I noticed that for 2 days after copulation the female stayed high on the branch without descending, when she did descend she walked around on all four legs swaying her body from side to side with her head lowered and moving in a circular motion. Her frill was half erect. This behavior continued all breeding season. I feel this behavior was a signal to tell the male she was gravid, because I noticed the male did not bother trying to mate with her again until after egg laying.

On the 13th of October, 1995 copulation was notices with the older female (4½ years old, length in total 23 inches (57cm)), this was noticed twice within half an hour. Her behavior was identical to the younger female.

After I witnessed the actual mating with the younger female I decided it was time to set up and area in the cage for egg laying.

Preparing the Frill-Necked Lizards for Egg Laying

I used as area of approximately 3 foot (89cm) square with a depth of 10 inches (25cm). I partitioned this area off with two large logs in order to retain the egg laying medium.

The medium consisted of two thirds garden loam and one third peat moss. This was well mixed together. After the medium was in place I watered the area until it was fairly moist. With the daily water spraying the medium was sprayed as well to keep the area moist. After I added the medium I found it to be of a great benefit in keeping the humidity at the level I wanted.

Frill-Necked Lizards: Laying of Eggs

On the 14th of October, 1995 the younger female deposited a clutch of 9 eggs in a hole she had dug in the corner of the cage in the prepared medium. All eggs appeared to be fertile so I removed them for incubation.

A second copulation was noted on the 24th of October, 1995 and four weeks later on the 22nd of November, 1995 the female laid a second clutch of 12 eggs, laying them in exactly the same place as the first clutch. These eggs appeared fertile and were removed for incubation.

All eggs were approximately 30mm (just over an inch) in length when deposited. No weights were measured.

A large clear sealed container was used for the incubation medium, which consisted of 815gm of medium sized vermiculite mixed with water to a one to one ratio. In the lower half of the container a hole was drilled so the probe from the digital thermometer could be placed inside the container just under the surface of the vermiculite to read the temperature. I adjusted the incubating temperature to between 29 and 30°C. Humidity was 95% plus.

All eggs incubating were monitored at least once a week to check progress and to remove and that may have died. Approximately 52 days after the first clutch was laid one egg appeared to have died. The egg was removed and opened for inspection. Inside was a partly formed baby that had died. The only reason I could come up with was that this was the egg I had accidentaly dropped when initially collecting them and it was not placed in the container correctly due to not knowing which way it had been laid. All other eggs were developing well and all looked very good. Growth in the first clutch was astounding. By 2 months of incubation the eggs had more than doubled in size, and still had approximately 20 days to go.

In the meantime the second clutch which was in the same container was developing well with slight growth noticed as approximately 30 days incubation, but looked small compared to the first clutch of eggs.

Egg Hatching of the Frill-Necked Lizards

First clutch. Between the 2nd and 3rd of January, 1996 exactly 80 days after being laid, the first two baby Frill-Necked Lizards slit their eggs and hatched out overnight. It was a great felling to see these beautiful little Frill-Necked lizards out of their eggs alive and well, both were removed from the incubator. I measured and weighed them then placed them in their cage. During the first night more eggs were slit and more babies emerged, some babies had their heads protruding. The following morning, 4th January, 1996 two more babies had hatched out with the remaining two babies hatching later that day, so all eight babies hatched over a two day period and all were fit and healthy.

Second clutch. The second clutch of 12 Frilly eggs started hatching on the 10th of February, 1996. After 80 days incubation, all had emerged by the end of the day on 11th of February, 1996.

Housing and Feeding of Baby Frill-Necked Lizards

All babies were housed in 4 foot aquariums and provided with a 2 foot fluoro (full spectrum) and a basking lamp to provide a hot spot. Air temperature in the aquariums was approximately 32°C.

All babies began feeding within a couple of days of birth. The food consisted of small crickets, cockroaches and small white meal worms. I decided to have a daily feeding routing for the babies with every alternative day the insects being dusted with Repcal and Herp-Vite multi vitamins and minerals, then one day off feeding for the week. The aquariums were lightly sprayed daily and babies were given water from a spray bottle to drink, all accepted this very well.

With this feeding pattern in place the growth rates of the babies was very good. Measurements were taken on the 23rd of April, 1996 of the length and weight of the remaining babies from both clutches after the sale of the others.

Frill-Necked Lizards: Breeding

Female No. 1 has yet to produce a god clutch of eggs, the reason for this is unknown but on both occasions when gravid she dropped the eggs from the branch she was perched on. The first clutch of eggs were retained for months after they were actually due for deposition, being dropped in April 1996. The second clutch were dropped at the right time but were no good after being dropped from a height. Eggs from both clutches were examined, with most proving to be infertile but a number of them having embryos.

All eggs from female No. 2 were fertile and developed well during incubation, apart from the second clutch in 1996 in which the eggs developed at a slower rate and did not increase in weight to the same size as the first clutch.

As can be seen by the data on the 2nd clutch (Female No. 2) the babies were born smaller and lighter in weight, this is due to a minor mistake on my part. Instead of setting up a new container for incubating I used the same container which was used for the 1st clutch, obviously the moisture content had reduced enough for the eggs to develop at a slower rate and not increase to the size of the 1st clutch, as indicated by the weights of the eggs taken just prior to hatching. Unfortunately a couple of the babies were weak at birth and one died after 53 days. As you can see by growth rates after 35 days the babies are only now reaching the size of the babies from the 1st clutch at birth. Apart from the other ill baby all appear to be progressing well and appear to be healthy and without problems.

Sexing Baby Frill-Necked Lizards

This proved to be very difficult because the babies were small. Brian Barnett and I attempted to extrude the hemipenes but this was short lived because the babies were too small and delicate. Later, with the use of a magnifying glass I decided to try to count the pre-anal pores which in itself worked well, except for the inconsistency in the number of pores counted on each animal which ranged from 6-8 on different animals. It was decided to leave sexing until the animals old enough to physically see the changes in the animals.

Acknowledgement

Brian Barnett provided guidance and assistance during this project and helped ensure my successful breeding of Frill-Necked Lizards.

Table 1. Breeding Data 1995-96

Female	Date Deposited	No. of Eggs	Length	No. Hatched
No. 1	25 April 1996	8	32mm	0
No. 2	14 October 1995	9	30mm	8
No. 2	22 November 1995	12	30mm	12
No. 1	23 December 1996	10	32mm	0
No. 2	13 September 1996	11	30mm	11
No. 2	9 December 1996	10	30mm	10

Table 2. Hatching Data 1995-96

Date Hatched	Inc. Period	No. Hatched	Ave. Length	Ave. Weight
3 January 1996	80 days	8	140mm	3.8g
10 February 1996	80 days	12	138mm	3.6g
28 November 1996	79 days	11	138mm	4.0g
25 February 1997	78 days	10	102mm	3.8g

Table 3. Growth Rate of Babies

Date Hatched	Days Old	Ave. Length	Ave. Weight
3 January 1996	30	178mm	4.8g
3 January 1996	110	242mm	10.5g
10 February 1996	30	152mm	4.7g
10 February 1996	70	216mm	9.0g
28 November 1996	38	165mm	5.0g
28 November 1996	150	178mm	10.3g
25 February 1997	35	133mm	4.3g
25 February 1997	70	127mm	4.7g

Frill-Necked Lizards

Keeping and Breeding Diamond Pythons

Breeding Diamond Pythons: Introduction

Images and Text by Rob Sullivan

Let me start by stating the obvious. There is probably dozens of ways to go about keeping and breeding Diamond Pythons or any python for that matter, this is what works for me.

Over time I have chatted with a fair few breeders, not just diamond breeders but python breeders in general and come up with a medley from all the information I collected.

Like most keepers, I started out with a Diamond Python, then another, then a few more. There is something about this animal that just seems to catch a lot of enthusiasts like me, into wanting to have them in my collection. It might be their graceful nature or their lovely coloration or simply the cluster of rosettes that just mesmerize you. I’m not sure, but out of all the snakes I have kept these are the ones at the top of my list.

Breeding Diamond Pythons: Housing

I simply keep mine housed in an enclosure 1200 x 600 x 600mm x 3 banks high (old scale; 4 x 2 x 2ft) unit that butts up to another unit the same size with a sliding door in between, a mirror image type look. I can either open the sliding door so there is a 2400 (8ft) long unit for roaming or I can simply drop the slide in to separate for feeding or for a period of time during breeding. I find this type of unit handy at cleaning times as you can just have the snake up one end, clean the unit at the other end without having to have extra tubs floating around to keep your reptile in whilst cleaning.

Light and heat is provided through a 40w basking lamp and floor heating from the unit below, with each unit being able to be isolated individually.

I aim for 28 degrees at the basking spot and depending on the ambient temperature the cooler end averages 25 degrees in the peak of the day. I use a 40w basking globe in my enclosure but obviously that may not suit your enclosure as every area a person lives in is different so some homework needs to be done to get what suits individuals needs.

Breeding Diamond Pythons: Feeding

Our adult females and males are fed every 14 days on 200g rats, quail or rabbits. *Note for yourself “they seem to really love rabbits”. I have never seen so much excitement as when a Diamond Python checks out a rabbit. They hit it that hard you nearly lose the feeding tongs with the rabbit. Proper feeding is important with breeding diamond pythons.

Come the end of January our females feed every 7 days as I believe new body fats need to be available for their egg development period.

The males will stay as they are all year round except when cooling as I prefer to keep them leaner so they are/should be a bit more enthusiastic and not lazy when introductions are started. Hatchlings up to juveniles are fed every 7 to 10 days on appropriate sized rats.

Breeding Diamond Pythons: Brumation

Brumation or winter cooling is for me started at the end of April. Towards the end of April the average night temperature (in Victoria) is around 6 degrees with mid 20 degree days, so the ambient temperatures are ideal for the cooling period to start. As I said earlier, we run a basking light with a thermostat during summer in order to prevent over heating even in a cooled house.

During winter no thermostat is used. We basically just run the basking for heating from 8am to 3pm; it takes some 2 to 3 hours for the enclosure to heat up that’s why we start it at 8am. The basking spot gets to 26 to 28 degrees between about 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock. Our diamonds seem to love these conditions and move between the basking spot and cool end several times a day. 3pm is the cut off time for the basking light because when I lived in Ulladulla on the east coast of NSW the temperature started to cool down in the winter around this time. The way our units are setup I keep Bredli underneath the female diamonds, as the heat from their unit rises and acts as floor heating so no night heat is required.

I might add that the herp room has windows at either end so natural lighting hours are achieved from when the sun comes up until when it goes down. I don’t seem to worry about 3 hours of this and 4 hours of that, in the wild the sun comes up and the sun goes down.

We do not offer food during brumation, our feeding stops at the end of April and resumes in the middle of August.

Breeding Diamond Pythons: The Process

The female generally has a pre breeding shed in mid to late August and the introductions start at the beginning of September; I’ve tried earlier but never any success.

I use 2 males at any one time; I try to give 1 male 2 days with the female prior to introducing the next male. Then the 3 are together for 2 days until the first male is taken out and the second stays with the female 2 more days before being removed. So a 6 day event for 1 female which during this time at least 2 matings generally would have occurred. From my observations the females seem to choose which male they are receptive to so really a choice is made by the female even though the male is the one searching for the female. I can’t recall ever seeing a second male breed with the female, I’m not saying it doesn’t happen, just I have never seen this happen.

After each 6 day breeding session small food items are offered to the female. Food is offered after each mating session until she refuses, which generally would determine that the female has become gravid. From our records females are generally refusing food at the start of November.

We supply a nesting box with a hole cut in the top for access and a thick layer of paper kept moist at approximately day 20 after a pre lay shed. We used a plastic tub with a hole in the side one year and ended up with more sphagnum moss in the enclosure than in the tub, what a pain! The gravid female will spend the majority of her time in the box coming out a few times over the day to bask for a short time then returning to her nesting box.

Breeding Diamond Pythons: Incubation

We have noticed that our females are more active in the last couple of days prior to egg laying than any other period whilst she has been gravid - she just seems to be restless. Our excitement has also grown so the female diamond is not the only one that is restless; especially overnight when most of our females have laid we are up every couple of hours checking them out.

On collection of the eggs for artificial incubation a towel is placed over the female to assist collection. Sometimes we collect the eggs as they come out and other times she is left alone to finish the lay. It just depends on the female and where the eggs lay, sometimes it is just too stressful on the female and she is left alone. We have separated and left clumps together with no ill effects either way; however we have been fortunate never to have had bad eggs in the bottom of a clump.

Artificial incubation is done by using an esky, heat cord, thermometer/hygrometer and a dimming thermostat.

A container of sufficient size is used to house the eggs for the next 30 days. Vermiculite and water mixed at 50/50 weight is used, aiming for a layer approximately 30-40mm deep. Simply, this is one of those "careful" stages in breeding diamond pythons.

I measure temperatures in the incubator and the humidity in one of the containers aiming for 31 degrees and 99%+ humidity. It has not been too often I have had to add water to lift the humidity. The containers are set up well in advance; I find condensation builds up until the container has reached the incubator temperature.

A week before the eggs slit open there are noticeable changes with the eggs starting to collapse. Not long now!

At 35 days I slit the eggs myself if there is no sign of the little ones slitting them. They have been known to drown in their own fluids by not having an egg tooth to slit the egg themselves, so the process is done for them.

Breeding Diamond Pythons: Hatchlings

Once the hatchlings’ heads are poking out it will generally take a few days for them to come out completely. Once one starts the others follow suit.

When they are completely out of their eggs they are removed to their new home. Food is not offered until a week after their first shed which is generally after 7 to 10 days. We start them off by just leaving a pinky mouse on the floor of their tub. Some take it straight away, some are more reluctant. No force is needed with diamonds from what I have found, just a heap of patience. After 2 feeds on pinky mice we start them on new born pinky rats, after that there is no stopping them.

Breeding Diamond Pythons

Jungle Carpet Python

Morelia spilota cheynei or the Jungle Carpet Python

Adult Jungle Carpet Python feeds largely on mammals (such as possums and fruit bats) and birds. The hatchlings prey mainly on small lizards. During the warmer months these snakes are largely nocturnal, meaning they are active at night. During cooler weather they can be found on the move in the warmer daytime.

During the mating season, several males will often aggregate around a single female and fight with each other to see who gets to mate with her. Female Carpet Pythons will lay from 5 to 50 eggs, with larger females laying more eggs. As with other Australian pythons, the female will curl around her eggs mass while the eggs are incubating, but will not care for the young after they've hatched. The row of pits on the lower jaw are heat sensitive organs, enabling the python to sense warm-blooded prey in total darkness.

Did you know...

• Jungle Carpet Pythons are found on the tablelands and ranges of north-eastern Queensland.
• The adult jungle carpet python feeds largely on mammals (such as possums and fruit bats) and birds.
• During the mating season, several male jungle carpet pythons will often aggregate around a single female and fight with each other to see who gets to mate with her.
• The female carpet pythons lay from 5 to 50 eggs, with larger females laying more eggs.
• As with other Australian pythons, the female jungle carpet python will curl around her eggs mass while the eggs are incubating, but will not care for the young after they've hatched.

Where Jungle Carpet Python can be found in Australia:

Jungle Carpet Python

Hosmer's Skink

Egernia hosmeri or the Hosmer's Skink

Just like the other skinks in this group, Hosmer's skinks tend to occur in small colonies on rocky outcrops or occasionally fallen timber. Found in subhumid to arid north Australia, it inhabits rocky ranges. The eastern population is separated from the western population by a large expanse of alluvial clay, which lacks suitable rocky shelter sites. They grow up to about 32 cm long, about half of which is made up of their spiny tail.

Hosmer's skinks give birth to live young, with an average litter containing four miniature replicas of their parents. Hosmer's skinks feed on plant material and any insects that they can overpower. This skink is one of the few skinks that will pant to cool itself if it gets too hot.

Did you know...

• The Hosmer's skink tend to occur in small colonies on rocky outcrops or fallen timber.
• Hosmer's Skink can grow up to about 32 cm long, about half of which is made up of their spiny tail.
• The Hosmer's skink gives birth to live young, with an average litter containing four miniature replicas of their parents.
• Hosmer's skink feeds on plant material and any insects that they can overpower.
• This skink is one of the few skinks that will pant to cool itself if it gets too hot.

Where Hosmer’s Skink can be found in Australia:

Hosmer's Skink

Bobuck Black Possum

Trichosurus caninus or the Bobuck Black Possum

The Bobuck is also known as the Bobuck Black Possum or the Mountain Possum. As one of its names suggests, it is typically found only in mountain country of eastern Australia. The Bobuck Black Possum has adapted to endure the extreme cold of winter in the Great Dividing Range above the snow line.

Its short ears, dark, almost black coat and large body size with "stumpy build", are adaptations wrought by Natural Selection that help to minimize loss of body heat. Evolution has thus produced an animal that is well able to cope with the harsh conditions of its snow-clad mountain home. Like all possums, the Bobuck Black Possum is a marsupial.

Bobuck Black Possum

Centralian Carpet Python

Morelia spilota bredli or the Centralian carpet python

The Centralian Carpet Python is found in the deep rock crevices, caves and tree hollows in central Australia. These shelters provide not only a hiding place for the snake, but also provide homes for the food supply of the centralian carpet python - rodents and birds. Females lay 10 to 50 eggs and then curl around them for about 70 days. By staying with the eggs the female python not only protects them, she can also keep them warm.

Growing up to 2.6 metres, the centralian carpet python closely relates to other carpet pythons. In fact, some herpetologists (people who study reptiles and amphibians) classify them as the same species.This snake is also called a Bredl's python, after Joe Bredl (an Australian herpetologist).

Did you know...

• The centralian carpet python grows up to 2.6 metres long.
• This python is found in the deep rock crevices, caves and tree hollows in central Australia.
• The centralian carpet pythons is closely related to other carpet pythons. In fact, some herpetologists classify them as the same species.
• Females lay 10 to 50 eggs and then curl around them for about 70 days. By staying with the eggs the female python not only protects them, she can also keep them warm.

Where to find Centralian Carpet Python in Australia:

Centralian Carpet Python

Cunningham's Skink

Egernia cunningham or the Cunningham's Skink

Did you know...

• The Cunningham's skink is the largest of the spiny-tailed skink group.
• As with all spiny-tailed skinks, Cunningham's skink gives birth to live young.
• The Cunningham's Skink live in rocky areas, and are often found in small groups.

Where Cunningham's Skink can be found in Australia:

Cunningham's Skink

Ringtail Possum

Pseudocheirus peregrinus or the Ringtail Possum

Many Australian tree dwellers rely on natural hollows in trees for shelter. These are sturdy and snug, but they are also in short supply. This is why some animals have decided to build their own shelter. The ringtail possum builds a nest (called a 'drey') using sticks and leaves. The ringtail possum sleeps in this drey during the day, and comes out at night forage for leaves, flowers and fruit. Female ringtails tend to have twins, which they will look after until the young are about six months old. Ringtail Possum families will often live together in their drey, and the pair bond (the mum and dad) can last for several years.

The tail with its distinctive white tip gives the Ringtail Possum their common name. This prehensile tail is very useful to the animal, acting as a fifth limb while the possum is clambering over small branches, and allowing the animal to carry nesting material back to its drey. Ringtails are known to many gardeners on the east coast of Australia as a cunning thief of rose flowers! The Ringtail Possum is quite happy to share space with humans, but the same can't always be said for the people. While not nearly as noisy as the brushtail possum, ringtails can often be heard making a soft, high-pitched call.

Did you know...

• Tree hollows are in short supply in the wild, so some animals (like the ringtail possums on display) will build their own shelter called a drey. They sleep during the day, and come out at night forage for leaves, flowers and fruit.
• The prehensile tail is very useful to the animal, acting as a fifth limb while the possum is clambering over small branches, and allowing the animal to carry nesting material back to its drey.
• Female ringtails tend to have twins, which they will look after until the young are about six months old. Ringtail families will often live together in their drey, and the pair bond (the mum and dad) can last for several years.

Where Ringtail Possums can be found in Australia:

Ringtail Possum

Scrub Python

Morelia kinghorni or the Scrub Python

Also known as the Amethyst or Amethystine Python, the Scrub Python is probably the largest species of snake in Australia. Specimens up to 8.5 metres long have been reported, but 5 metres is a more average length. They are found in tropical lowlands, slopes and tablelands with rainforests and vine thickets. Scrub Pythons rest in tree hollows and forks, under fallen logs on the forest floor, and in cracks and crevices among rocks.

The Scrub Python eats mammals and birds. Because of their large size they are able to take large prey, including wallabies and tree kangaroos.

After mating the female will stop eating, and often bask with her belly facing up towards the sun. When ready, she'll lay up to about 19 eggs and then coil around them. If the eggs get too cold she can shiver to raise their temperature.

As with most pythons, the Scrub Python has a row of heat pits on their lower jaw. These are able to detect very small changes in temperature, enabling the python to find warm-blooded prey even in complete darkness. These heat pits complement the snake's forked tongue, and make up for their less-than-perfect vision.

Did you know...

• The scrub python is probably the largest species of snake in Australia. Specimens up to 8.5 metres long have been reported, but 5 metres is a more average length.
• Because of their large size they are able to take large prey, including wallabies and tree kangaroos. Scrub pythons are also known as the amethyst or amethystine python.
• After mating the female will stop eating, and often bask with her belly facing up towards the sun.
• Scrub python has a row of heat pits on their lower jaw. These are able to detect very small changes in temperature, enabling the python to find warm-blooded prey even in complete darkness.

Where the Scrub Python dwells in Australia:

Scrub Python

Box-patterned Gecko

Diplodactylus steindachneri or the Box-patterned Gecko

Did you know...

• Box-patterned gecko dwells in the dry woodland areas of Queensland and New South Wales.
• By day, the box-patterned gecko shelters in soil cracks, underneath fallen timber and in piles of logs. At night, they emerge to feed.
• Like most geckos, the Box-patterned Gecko eats virtually anything they can fit in their mouths, such as termites, crickets and spiders.
• Geckos usually lay just two eggs pet clutch, but they can lay multiple clutches per year. After she's laid her eggs, the female won't look after them.

Where in Australia Box-patterned Gecko dwells:

Box-patterned Gecko

Long-nosed Potoroo

Potorous tridactylus or the Long-nosed Potoroo

One of the first mammals recorded form Australia was the long-nosed potoroo. Their species name, 'tridactylus', means 'three toes'. The Long-nosed Potoroo has four toes, but the secondhand third are joined, which fooled the early naturalists that described this animal. They like to live in areas with thick ground cover. They will often dig small holes in the ground in the same fashion that bandicoots do. They do this to search for soil-dwelling insects, worms, fungi, and plant roots and tubers.

The females have four teats but only one young is raised at a time, which will live in the pouch for about four months. They have been known to live up to seven years in the wild and up to twelve years in captivity. Long-nosed potoroos occur frequently in the subfossil record, suggesting that they were much more common in the not-too-distant past. It is not know whether the arrival of humans is to blame for their population decrease, but it is certainly clear that widespread clearing across all of Australia has removed much of their former habitat.

Did you know...

• One of the first mammals recorded form Australia was the long-nosed potoroo.
• Their species name, 'tridactylus', means 'three toes'. Potoroos actually have four toes, but the second and third are joined, which fooled the early naturalists that described this animal.
• Long-nosed potoroos occur frequently in the subfossil record, suggesting that they were much more common in the not-too-distant past.
• It is not know whether the arrival of humans is to blame for their population decrease, but it is certainly clear that widespread clearing across all of Australia has removed much of their former habitat.

Where to find the Long-nosed Potoroo in Australia:

Long-nosed Potoroo

Rough-scaled Python

Morelia carinata or the Rough-scaled Python

Did you know...

• Rough-scaled python was only scientifically recognized in 1981.
• The Rough-scaled Python was found in a very remote part of the Western Australian Kimberley region.
• The Rough-scaled Python is unique among Australian pythons in having keeled (rough) scales.
• Living in such a remote environment has made studying this snake in the wild almost impossible. As such:

- their diet in the wild is unknown, but birds may be a large part of it. - the function of the keeled scales is unknown, but may help the snakes wedge themselves into crevices.

Where Rough-scaled Pythons dwell in Australia:

Rough-scaled Python

Ring-tailed Gecko

Cyrtodactylus louisiadensis or the Ring-tailed Gecko

The ring-tailed gecko is one of Australia's largest gecko species, growing up to 34 cm long, half of which is tail. They are attractively marked animals with broad purplish-brown bands on their pale bodies. Their habitat includes the rainforest and rocky areas of north-eastern Queensland, to the caves and rock fissures in the drier western parts of the Atherton Tableland. As with all gecko species, the ringtailed gecko is an egg layer, depositing 2 eggs at a time.

A remarkably agile gecko, it is very adept at leaping from boulder to boulder when being pursued, or when pursuing its prey. Ring-tailed geckos eat virtually any small invertebrates they can fit in their mouths, and will even prey on other small species of lizard. As with all geckoes, the ring-tailed gecko don't have eyelids. Instead, they have a transparent scale that covers their eye. They can use their long, flexible tongues to lick this scale clean. This scale, called a 'spectacle', is shed when the animal shed its skin.

Did you know...

• The ring-tailed gecko is one of Australia's largest gecko species, growing up to 34 cm long.
• They live in the rainforest and rocky areas of north-eastern Queensland, and the caves and rock fissures in the drier western parts of the Atherton Tableland.
• A remarkably agile gecko, it is very adept at leaping from boulder to boulder when being pursued, or when pursuing its prey, which can sometimes be small lizards.
• As with all geckoes, these lizards don't have eyelids. Instead, they have a transparent scale that covers their eye. They can use their long, flexible tongues to lick this scale clean.

Where in Australia Ring-tailed Geckos can be found:

Ring-tailed Gecko

Squirrel Glider

Petaurus norfolcensis or the Squirrel Glider

The squirrel glider is very similar in appearance and gliding ability to the sugar glider, though it can get to twice the size. In a lot of areas the squirrel glider is rarer and more restricted than its cousin the sugar glider. Loss of habitat is threatening this animal: it may be endangered in the southern part of its range in northern Victoria. The squirrel glider lives in dry sclerophyll forest and woodland in south-eastern Australia, but not in dense coastal ranges. However, in northern New South Wales and Queensland it occurs in coastal forest and in some wet forest areas bordering on rainforest.

Squirrel gliders enjoy eating insects, especially beetles and caterpillars. They also feed on the gum produced by acacias, the sap of certain eucalypts, nectar and pollen. They nest in bowlshaped hollows in trees, which they line with leaves. Each nest will contain a number of animals, but only one male over the age of two years. There will be one or more females and their offspring, including males under the age of two years. After this age the young males are forced out of the nest to find another hollow to call their own.

Did you know...

• The squirrel glider is very similar in appearance and gliding ability to the sugar glider, though it can get to twice the size.
• Loss of habitat is threatening this animal: especially in northern Victoria. Luckily, squirrel gliders are still quite common in Brisbane. To keep it that way, it's importantthat dogs and cats are locked up at night.
• Squirrel gliders enjoy eating insects, especially beetles and caterpillars, and the sap of wattles and gum trees.
• Each nest contains a number of animals, but only one adult male. There will be one or more females and their offspring. Young males are forced out of the nest when they are two to find another hollow to call their own.

Where Squirrel Gliders thrive in Australia:

Squirrel Glider

Olive Python

Liasis olivaceus or the Olive Python

The Olive Python is sometimes confused with the Water Python, or (often to its detriment) the venomous Mulga Snake. On closer inspection they are very different looking animals. The Olive Python grows to a length of 4 metres, with those from the Pilbara region in Western Australia reaching even greater lengths. The back is a pale fawn to rich brown or dull olive brown in colour, while the belly is a light cream. The lips are pale, finely dotted with grey or brown. 

The Olive Python is found in the drier parts of northern Australia, from northwestern Western Australia to western Queensland. They seem to be more abundant amongst the rocky hills and ranges. The length and weight of an adult Olive Python restricts its climbing to only the largest trees and rocky outcrops.As with all pythons, the Olive Python does most of its hunting at night time, feeding on rats, birds, and wallabies.

The female Olive Python can deposit up to 24 eggs per clutch. She will then wrap her coils around these eggs and produce a suitable microenvironment to aid in their hatching.

Did you know...

• The length and weight of an adult olive python restricts its climbing to only the largest trees and rocky outcrops.
• The olive python grows to a length of 4 metres, with those from the Pilbara region in Western Australia reaching even greater lengths.
• The olive python is sometimes confused with the water python, or (often to its detriment) the venomous mulga snake. On closer inspection they are very different looking animals.
• The female olive python can deposit up to 24 eggs per clutch. She will then wrap her coils around these eggs and produce a suitable microenvironment to aid in their hatching.

Where to find Olive Pythons in Australia:

Olive Python

Spinifex Hopping Mice

Notomys alexis or the Spinifex Hopping Mice

Hopping mice cope with the harsh conditions of arid Australia by residing in deep humid burrows during the day. Colonies of up to 10 individuals may reside in each burrow system.

The diet of the spinifex hopping mice in the wild is extremely varied; it includes small insects, spiders, scorpions, seeds and vegetation. The average size litter for this little animal is 3 to 4 babies. The whole colony assists in caring for the young. The life expectancy for spinifex hopping mice is 3 to 4 years. In a good season with lots of rain (and therefore lots of food), populations of hopping mice can reach huge numbers.

Did you know...

• The spinifex hopping mice is a true mice. Australia has many native rodents, and not just the more well-known marsupials like kangaroos and koalas.
• Hopping mice cope with the harsh conditions of arid Australia by residing in deep humid burrows during the day. Colonies of up to 10 individuals may reside in each burrow system.
• The diet of the spinifex hopping mice in the wild is extremely varied; it includes small insects, spiders, scorpions, seeds and vegetation.
• The average size litter for this little animal is 3 to 4 babies.
• The whole colony assists in caring for the young.
• In a good season with lots of rain (and lots of food), populations of hopping mice can reach huge numbers.

Range and distribution of Spinifex Hopping Mice across Australia:

Spinifex Hopping Mice

Water Python

Liasis mackloti or the Water Python

Water pythons can be found in the coastal areas of northern Australia. They are generally found near water bodies with fringing plants, and in nearby woodlands and forests. Water pythons shelter in soil burrows, especially under trees, in hollows and stumps, under fallen vegetation and timber, and in rocky crevices. During the warmer months they will spend much of their time hidden under water among the reeds and rushes that line water courses, swamps and billabongs.

The Water python feeds on mammals, such as rats, bandicoots and small wallabies, and water birds. They are also one of the few Australian snakes that will eat bird eggs, and even small crocodiles. On warm summer nights they can often be found crossing or basking on roads.

In October or November females will lay from 11 to 19 eggs, which she will then coil around to protect and keep warm. The young will hatch after about 75 days, and the mother will then let them fend for themselves.

Did you know...

• The Water python can be generally found near water bodies with fringing plants, and in nearby woodlands and forests.
• During the warmer months they will spend much of their time hidden under water among the reeds and rushes that line water courses, swamps and billabongs.
• Water python feeds on mammals, such as rats, bandicoots and small wallabies, and water birds. They are also one of the few Australian snakes that will eat bird eggs, and even small crocodiles.
• In October or November females will lay from 11 to 19 eggs, which she will then coil around to protect and keep warm. The young will hatch after about 75 days, and the mother will then let them fend for themselves.

Where Water Python can be found in Australia:

Water Python

Pink-tongued Skink

Cyclodomorphus gerrardii or the Pink-tongued Skink

Members of this species are born with a blue tongue, but its colour changes to pink within the first year or so. The tail is long and prehensile, and can be used to grip things (such as branches when the lizard is climbing). Both arboreal (tree climbing) and terrestrial (living on the ground), pink tongues shelter in tree hollows, hollow logs and crevices, and under fallen timber and leaves.

The pink-tongued skink is crepuscular, meaning it is active at dawn and dusk. They can often be found after light rain, out and about in search of their favourite food: snails.

Mating takes place in spring, and anywhere from 8 to 65 young are born in summer. Juveniles are very conspicuously coloured with striking black and cream bands. The colour pattern of the adults varies. The body is usually grey to fawn or brown with a series of dark brown of black bands. In some individuals these are absent or may be reduced to bands of spots.

The pink-tongued skink lives in close association with people in cities and cleared areas, as well as in bushland. In the Brisbane region, the pink-tongued skink is common and widespread. It is not unusual for them to be found in gardens and dwellings in inner Brisbane.

Did you know...

• The pink-tongued skink is born with a blue tongue, but its colour changes to pink within the first year or so.
• The tail is long and prehensile, and can be used to grip things (such as branches when the lizard is climbing).
• Juveniles are very conspicuously coloured with striking black and cream bands.
• Pink-tongued skink is both arboreal (tree-climbing) and terrestrial (living on the ground). They also  shelter in tree hollows, hollow logs and crevices, and under fallen timber and leaves.
• Pink-tongues are live-bearers, producing a litter of between 20 and 65 young in Spring or Summer.
• Although pink-tongued skink can be harmless, they do have strong jaws and a bite from a large lizard is very painful.
• Pink-tongued skinks are mainly active during dusk and dawn and can often be found after light rain, out and about in search of their favourite food: slugs and snails. What better way to keep the snails off your prized crop of lettuce than to have your own resident pink-tongue skink?!

Where Pink-tongued Skink can be found in Australia:

Pink-tongued Skink

Northern Brown Bandicoot

Isoodon macrourus or the northern brown bandicoot

The northern brown bandicoot eats insects and spiders but will also eat berries, seeds and some plant material. They live in a number of habitat types but prefer to hang out in areas of low and dense ground cover. Northern brown bandicoots spend their days in hidden nests and sometimes in hollow logs and under grass tussocks. They come out at night to forage, often digging small conical shaped holes in the ground when looking for food.

The males northern brown bandicoot is larger than females and have a gland behind the eat that it uses to mark the ground and vegetation. They breed at different times of the year depending on the region in which they live. They can have up to seven babies at a time (they have eight teats), but usually only have two to four in a litter. Young are weaned after about 60 days.

Although northern brown bandicoots can have a high reproductive rate, they have become extinct in areas of development, farming and grazing.

Did you know...

• The northern brown bandicoot eats insects and spiders but will also eat berries, seeds and some plant material.
• They come out at night to forage, often digging small conical shaped holes in the ground.
• All bandicoots are marsupials (like koalas and kangaroos), not rodents (like rats and mice).
• Males are larger than females and have a gland behind the eat that they use to mark the ground and vegetation.
• They breed at different times of the year depending on the region in which they live. They can have up to seven
• babies at a time, but usually only have two to four in a litter.

Where to spot the Northern Brown Bandicoots in Australia:

Brown Bandicoot

Magnificent Tree Frog

Litoria splendida or the Magnificent Tree Frog

Magnificent tree frog can look quite similar to their close relative, the more widely distributed green tree frog. While their commoner cousin is found over much of eastern and northern Australia, the magnificent tree frog is restricted to the Kimberleys of Western Australia. These two tree frogs can be told apart by the magnificent tree frog's brilliant orange colour found on its limbs, groin and thighs, and the massive glands that appear behind its head.

The glands (called parotoid glands) and the orange colouration become more obvious as the animal grows. The glands release chemicals called pheromones, which are used to communicate with other frogs of the same species. While this is the only Australian frog that has been confirmed to produce these pheromones, it's likely that others do too.

Did you know...

• Magnificent tree frog can look quite similar to their close relative, the green tree frog.
• While its commoner cousin is found over much of eastern and northern Australia, the magnificent tree frog is restricted to the Kimberleys of Western Australia.
• The big, bulging glands (called parotoid glands) found on the shoulders release chemicals called pheromones. These pheremones are used to communicate with other frogs of the same species.
• While this is the only Australian frog that has been confirmed to produce these pheromones, it's likely that others do too.

Where Magnificent Tree Frogs can be found in Australia:

Magnificent Tree Frog