Inland Taipan

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Oxyuranus microlepidotus or the Inland Taipan

The world's most toxic snake venom belongs to the animal you are now looking at. It is 50 times more lethal than the venom of the Indian Cobra. An average bite from an adult Inland Taipan is enough to kill 250,000 mice. This venom is strongly neurotoxic and has been shown to produce presynaptic ultrastructural changes in the rat diaphragm, preventing the animal from breathing.

The Inland Taipan is seldom seen by humans, in fact this animal was only recognised as a Taipan in 1974. In the areas where these animals live, summer ground temperatures often exceed 50 degrees Celcius. The snakes shelter in the deep cracks in the ground, where the temperature drops by up to 18 degrees Celcius.

The Inland Taipan needs to be careful when hunting rats. Having powerful venom is of little consequence if the prey item you've just sunk your fangs into turns and snaps your neck with one bite of its jaws. This is the reason Taipans use the 'snap and release' technique. Bite, move back quickly, and wait. It knows once its venom is delivered, it will be only a short time to wait for its victim to die and be ready for eating.

The only recorded bites from the Inland Taipan come from keepers, but there has never been a human fatality. In the wild their lives revolve around rat plagues - feast, breed and then die back with the next famine. The Inland Taipan is an egg layer, depositing 10 to 18 eggs deep underground during the summer months.

Did you know...

  • The inland taipan has the world's most toxic snake venom. It is 50 times more lethal than the venom of the Indian Cobra.
  • An average bite from an adult inland taipan is enough to kill 250,000 mice. This venom attacks the nervous system.
  • The inland taipan is seldom seen by humans. In fact, this animal was only recognised as a taipan in 1974. The only recorded bites from the inland taipan are to people who keep the species.

Where in Australia Inland Taipan can be seen:

Inland Taipan uses the 'snap and release' technique when hunting rats to avoid being bitten by their prey when they've envenomated it.

Western Tiger Snake

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Notechis scutatus occidentalis or the Western Tiger Snake

Western Tiger Snake is common over most of its range in south-western Western Australia. The stunning yellow pattern is typical of the Western Tiger Snake. The Western Tiger Snake shelters in or under fallen and rotting timber, in abandoned animal burrows, and under rocks and dense vegetation. Like all members of the Tiger Snake group, this subspecies is capable of delivering a fatal bite to a human.

Adults hunt for frogs, lizards, small mammals, and nesting birds during the day and evening, and are known to hunt for frogs on wet nights. The Western Tiger Snake can get up to about 1.6 metres in length. When they feel threatened they flatten their neck out to make themselves look bigger. Like the other Tiger Snake subspecies, Western Tiger Snakes produce live young. Up to 90 young can be produced in a single litter, but between 10 and 30 is a more common litter size.

Did you know...

  • The stunning yellow pattern is typical of western tiger snakes.
  • Like all members of the Tiger Snake group, this subspecies is capable of delivering a fatal bite to a human.
  • When the Western Tiger Snake feels threatened they flatten their neck out to make themselves look bigger.
  • Like the other tiger snake subspecies, western tiger snakes produce live young.

Where in Australia Western Tiger Snake are found:

  • Up to 90 Western Tiger snake young can be produced in a single litter, but between 10 and 30 is a more common litter size.
  • Common Tiger Snake

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    Notechis scutatus or the Common Tiger Snake

    The Common Tiger Snake is found in Victoria and southern New South Wales, extending up into south-eastern Queensland. Tiger Snakes are often found in close proximity to water sources. This is because this is where you find one of their favourite foods - frogs. Tiger snakes numbers seem to have declined in recent years. This has been attributed to two reasons. One, Tiger Snakes often mistake poisonous Cane Toads for an edible frog and die after eating a toad. And two, with global frog numbers decreasing, some Tiger Snake populations are finding it hard to find food.

    Prior to the development of antivenom, half of all bites from Tiger Snakes proved to be fatal. The venom contains multiple components, some attacking the nervous system, some targeting the blood system, and others attacking muscles.

    Even though this group is second only to the Brown Snakes in terms of the number of deaths they've caused, if proper first aid is applied it's extremely unlikely to die from a Tiger Snake bite nowadays.

    Did you know...

    • Prior to the development of antivenom, half of all bites from Tiger Snakes proved to be fatal.
    • The venom contains multiple components, some attacking the nervous system, some targeting the blood system, and others attacking muscles.
    • Tiger snakes numbers seem to have declined in recent years. This might be because tiger snakes often mistake poisonous cane toads for an edible frog.

    Where in Australia Common Tiger Snake dwells:

    Common tiger snake group is second only to the brown snakes in terms of the number of deaths they've caused in Australia.

    Chappell Island Tiger Snake

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    Notechis ater serventyi or the Chappell Island Tiger Snake

    The Chappell Island Tiger Snake comes from Chappell Island in the Bass Strait. This is a very inhospitable place to live, and the Chappell Island Tiger has several adaptations to ensure its survival. The Islands in the Bass Strait are known for their severe winters.

    To counteract this, the dark colour of these snakes helps the animals warm quickly when lying in the sun. At night the snakes will take shelter in the burrows of the Mutton Birds that nest on the Island. During a brief breeding season of these Mutton Birds (2 to 3 months per year) is the only time the Chappell Island Tigers get to feed. The snakes' bodies have adapted to tolerate this gorge of oil from the chicks and then live off it for the remaining 9 to 10 months, until the next mutton bird season.

    There is no fresh water on this Island, so the snakes get their fluid either from their food, or by licking dew in the mornings. The Chappell Island Tiger Snake is recognised as the largest species of Tiger Snake, reaching a length of 2 metres. As with all Tiger Snakes the Chappell Island Tiger produces live babies, often in excess of 20. Because of the cold climate, it makes more sense for these animals to be live bearers - as the female regulates her temperature by basking or snuggling beside the Mutton Birds, she is also regulating the temperature of her offspring.

    Did you know...

    • The Chappell Island tiger snake is recognised as the largest species of tiger snake, reaching a length of 2 metres.
    • These snakes are dark to warm up quickly in the sun as it is very cold on Chappell Island.
    • The snakes' bodies have adapted to tolerate this gorge of oil from the chicks and then live off it for the remaining 9 to 10 months, until the next mutton bird season.

    Where Chappell Island Tiger Snakes are found in Australia:

    Chappell Island tiger snake only get to feed during the brief breeding season of the mutton birds (2 to 3 months per year) that breed on the island

    Peninsular Tiger Snake

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    Notechis ater niger or the Peninsular Tiger Snake

    The Peninsular Tiger Snake is found on Eyre Peninsula and on the islands of South Australia, such as Kangaroo Island. They shelter in disused seabird burrows, as well as under rocks, dense vegetation, and fallen timber . The venom of the Peninsula Tiger Snake is actually more toxic than the venom of the Common Tiger Snake. It is also five times more toxic than that of the Indian Cobra.

    The diet of the Peninsular Tiger Snake is varied, depending on where it comes from. Some Islands contain many species of birds, whilst other Islands might only have lizards to offer the Tiger Snakes as a source of food. Often when subduing a rodent or bird, the Peninsular Tiger Snake will throw a loop of its body around the prey and constrict it while the venom takes effect. This is similar to the way pythons constrict their prey. The Peninsular Tiger Snake grows to a little over 1 metre. As with other Tiger Snakes they produce live young, with up to 20 in a litter.

    Did you know...

    • Often when subduing a rodent or bird, the peninsular tiger snake will throw a loop of its body around the prey and constrict it while the venom takes effect. This is similar to the way pythons constrict their prey.
    • The venom of the peninsula tiger snake is actually more toxic than the venom of the Common Tiger Snake. It is also five times more toxic than that of the Indian Cobra.

    Where in Australia Peninsular Tiger Snakes dwell:

    The peninsular tiger snake produce live young, with up to 20 in a litter.

    Green Python

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    Morelia viridis or the Green Python

    This jewel of the Cape York Peninsular lives amongst the epiphytes in the forest canopy, where its green colour offers perfect camouflage. Though listed as rare, its distribution is larger than many countries in Europe. Iron Range, where this animal is found, is isolated by the wet season for several months of the year. The Green Python is also found in Papua New Guinea and Irian Jaya. The adult Green Python is an arboreal species, preferring by day to rest in a distinctive draped coil over a single horizontal branch. In the evening they feed primarily on birds and rodents, for which they will move to the forest floor.

    Juvenile Green Pythons are vastly different in colour to their adult parents. These small animals hatch out of their eggs bright yellow, brick red or brown with the colour of their body actually going through their eye pattern. As these animals reach maturity they go through a colour transformation, ending up as the typical green colour. Juvenile Green Pythons prefer to be closer to the floor of the forest to live and hunt until attaining their adult colours.

    They feed primarily on lizards. The little snakes use their tails as a lure imitating a small worm, to catch these lizards. When the lizards come to eat, they become the meal. The Green Python is an egg layer, with up to 20 eggs being laid in one clutch.

    Did you know...

    • This jewel of the Cape York Peninsular lives amongst the epiphytes in the forest canopy, where its green colour offers perfect camouflage.
    • Though listed as rare, the green python's distribution is larger than many countries in Europe. The Green Python is also found in Papua New Guinea and Irian Jaya. Juvenile green pythons are vastly different in colour to their adult parents.
    • These small animals hatch out of their eggs bright yellow, brick red or brown with the colour of their body actually going through their eye pattern.

    Where Green Pythons can be found in Australia:

    Juvenile green python can use their tails as a lure imitating a small worm, to catch lizards.

    Keeping and Breeding The Coastal Taipan (Oxyuranus Scutellatus)

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    Coastal Taipan: An Introduction

    Text by Brian Barnett (Originally published in Thylacinus in 1986. Reprinted in Monitor Vol.10 Issue 2/3 1999)

    The Coastal Taipan is one of Australia’s largest venomous and most dangerous snakes, occurring widely in northern Australia with an endemic sub-species in New Guinea (Cogger, 1983). In recent years its popularity in reptile collections has increased. Here in Victoria, we are more fortunate than some of our interstate counterparts in that private keepers are allowed to legally keep these reptiles.

    Captives are alert and by snake standards appear to be highly intelligent. This paper has been written in response to repeated questions by colleagues in relation to my previous successes in breeding the species.

    Coastal Taipan: Materials and Methods

    Eight females and two males contributed to the breeding results of this paper, and throughout the tables are numbered for cross reference. An additional female (No. 9) was used to obtain the results in the section relating to growth rates.

    Female 1. Collected from the wild as a gravid specimen, Rockhampton, Queensland, 1972. Female 2. Collected from the Cairns region, north Queensland, 1977. Female 3. Collected from the Cairns region, north Queensland, 1977. Female 4. Born Feb. 1978 from female 2 & male 2. Female 5. Born Feb. 1978 from female 2 & male 2. Female 6. Born Oct. 1980 from female 3 & male 2. Female 7. Born Oct. 1980 from female 3 & male 2. Female 8. Born Dec. 1981 from female 5 & male 1. Female 9. Born Dec. 1981 from female 5 & male 1. Male 1. Born Feb. 1978 from female 2 & male 2. Male 2. Collected from the Cairns region, north Queensland, 1977.

    The adult snakes are housed individually in cages designed to maximize the use of the space available in a confined area. The design allows other cages to be placed on top and also offers a degree of safety without the normal top or front opening door or lid. The hinged lid is set at an angle of 45 deg. reducing the area of the front and top but resulting in a module with easy and safe access. See Figure 1 in Barnett (1978).

    The floor area of each individual unit measures 60cm x 75cm, the height at the back is 90cm and the front height is 60cm. A viewing window, 20cm x 15cm, is fitted into the particle board lid.

    Each new born clutch is housed in a series of three top opening cages each measuring 60cm x 48cm floor area x 46cm in height. A viewing window, 36cm x 18cm, is fitted into the lid.

    Pre-washed fine aquarium gravel is used as the ground cover and regularly topped up as the soiled areas are scooped out. A rock of suitable size is also placed on the floor area to be of assistance in sloughing and to block the hide box entrance whilst cleaning.

    A wooden hide box, floor area 45cm x 20cm and 15cm in height, is supplied in each adult unit. These have hinged lids. The newborns are supplied with upturned plastic cereal bowls with a small entrance opening cut out of the side. In particular with the young, the hide bowls are constantly used and the young seem far less nervous than those that were not given hide bowls in the past.

    Similar plastic cereal bowls are used as the drinking water containers. They are of the stackable type which fit tightly into each other. One is fixed to the floor of eachunit and the other is placed within this one. It is easily removed and replaced as fresh water is supplied. The fixing of one bowl to the floor eliminates any possible upturning of the second bowl and subsequent spillage.

    A plastic vent, 12cm x 7cm, is fitted into the lid or wall of each unit. No natural light is supplied and each unit receives daylight hours of lighting by means of incandescent bulbs (15 watt). However, the reptile house itself is fitted with 1.2m ‘True-Lites’ throughout and this provides additional lighting during daylight hours.

    Heating to the adult units was initially supplied by 150 watt Infra-red globes. This was later changed to a series of three 40 watt blue coloured incandescent globes in each unit. The blue globes are used to keep the night time hours in relative darkness when these lights may be on. The heating lights are controlled by a thermostat and each unit maintains a temperature of 26 – 28 degrees Celsius. This temperature is maintained through the year and no seasonal changes are made.

    Feeding of the adult snakes is year round and on average three times per month. Six mice or one rat to a weight of around 150gm is readily taken per feed. The newborns and sub adults are fed on a rotation system and depending on time and food available may be fed up to three times per week.

    Results - Also See Images of Tables (At the end of this post)

    Coastal Taipans mating, note the swollen area on the female, indicating a swollen, inserted hemipenisThe male is introduced to the female immediately following the sloughing of the female. In the adult snakes sloughing occurs six to seven times per year at intervals of 46-67 days, mean 58 days, giving adequate opportunities for introductions. Normally, copulation occurs within hours and continues for up to six hours. The male is removed following the completion of copulation.

    The snakes have been successfully mated over seven months of the year from mid autumn, through winter and into mid spring. No matings have been achieved during the summer months (table 1(a) and (b).) although introductions were made. N. Charles records one mating in early December (Shine & Covacevich, 1983). The most productive period being late August – early September.

    The age of the females at first introduction was varied but two individuals were first mated at 20 months of age when their total body length was approximately 2 metres. As the Taipan matures at a much smaller size than this, 78cm SVL for males and 101cm SVL for females (Shine & Covacevich, 1983) it should be possible to breed them at an even earlier age. I have achieved the maturity sizes documented by Shine & Covacevich (1983) with several specimens at five to seven months.

    A second mating for the year was recorded for three individual specimens. The previous matings were all early in the mating range, months four, five and six, and the duration between matings was 134, 77 and 93 days. The second matings were all achieved in the more regulation period of late winter, early spring.

    Coastal Taipan: Egg-Laying

    The eggs are laid in the hide box 11-14 days following the pre-laying slough, a feature also observed at the Melbourne Zoo (Banks, 1983).

    No nesting material is provided and the female coils tightly, creates a shallow depression in the gravel and commences laying. I have been present for most of the layings and the majority of eggs have been removed individually, with a spoon scoop, with the female showing little concern in this intrusion.

    The laying of five individual clutches were recorded for periods between egg laying. Depending on the size of the clutch and the number of smaller infertile eggs, which were deposited at a faster rate, the laying period ranged from six hours 16 minutes to seven hours 58 minutes. The mean period between individual eggs of the five clutches was 29.4 minutes (23-37).

    Two clutches, from the one mating, were recorded from two individual specimens (Table 2), indicating sperm retention, a phenomenon also recorded by other herpetologists (Peters, 1972; Banks, 1983). The inter-clutch periods were 66 and 69 days. The fertility rates were 44 & 75%. The period from copulation to oviposition in all but one instance ranged from 61-85 days, mean 69 days (Table 2).

    Clutch No. 19 was laid 155 days following the only observed mating. Although a male was present in her cage for several days up to 82 days prior to her laying, no indication of attempted mating was observed and under the conditions that they are kept, the period over which copulation occurs and my regularity of checking such introductions, I believe that this laying would be the result of sperm retention from the earlier observed mating. The female had not been bred previously and had shown no signs of being gravid in the expected period from the observed mating. It did not come up for its pre-laying slough anywhere near the time that it would have been expected in the range after the observed mating. It also laid well outside the range of  all other clutches (February) and in normal circumstances this would be the result of a summer mating, the period in which I have not recorded any matings or the males having shown any interest in the females.

    The following data on eggs of Oxyuranus scutellatus has been determined from Table 3.

    • Mean clutch size: 14 eggs (9-20).
    • The fertility rate was 78% (40-100).
    • Mean (fertile) egg length per clutch at oviposition: 56.4mm (47.6 – 65.8), n = 16.
    • Mean (fertile) egg diameter per clutch at oviposition: 32.4mm (29.4 – 34.8), n = 16.
    • Mean (fertile) egg weight per clutch at oviposition 32.9gm (24.2 – 36.7), n = 13.

    Coastal Taipan: Incubation

    The eggs are incubated in clear top plastic bread containers using vermiculite as the medium (Barnett, 1981. 100ml of water is added to 150g vermiculite giving the medium a depth of 3cm in the container. A fine spray of water is added at a future date if required. The relative humidity is kept high. The temperature range during incubation is 29.5 – 32 degrees Celsius.

    Coastal Taipan: Hatching

    Pre-hatch measurements and weights (1-2 days before slitting) were taken of six clutches and although minimal, all but one clutch registered weight loss. The clutch with the weight gain averaged 0.4g/egg. Weight losses per clutch varied from 1.4-5.0g/egg. Lengths varied from a gain of 0.5mm to a loss of 0.6mm/egg. The diameter varied from a gain of 0.7mm to a loss of 0.5mm/egg.

    Five completed clutches were not incubated. Several were not required whilst others were used to photograph and collect embryos at varying stages and experimenting with the open egg in a humicrib (Barnett, 1980).

    The incubation periods ranged from 62-71 days (n=15), mean 67. The percentage of eggs hatching from those placed under incubation ranged from 67-100% - mean 94% (n=15).

    Upon slitting the eggs the young snakes usually emerge within 1-2 days. The young were weighed and measured at birth and all clutches are summarized in Table 4. Clutch #8 was the exception in size and weight and several of the very low weight range in the other clutches were found to have encountered restrictions on food supply with in the egg. The tail measurements of the young averaged out to 15% of the total body lengths.

    Coastal Taipan: Rearing of Young

    Each clutch of young is housed in a series of three cages as described in ‘Materials and Methods’. The middle cage is only used for feeding and the snakes are offered food individually. As one snake is moved from one cage, is fed in the middle cage and is then moved onto the other end cage. This is repeated until all the young have been fed and the next feed is a transfer back to the other end. Stubborn feeders can be left in the feed section overnight. I have found this rotation system to be very effective with raising young and can save valuable time whilst maintaining a large collection.

    The young Taipans prefer moving prey and many have been reluctant to accept day old mice whilst readily accepting pre-weaner mice. The average sized hatchling Taipan is quite capable of eating a mouse up to 10gm in weight. Unlike the snap and release action of the adult snakes, the young attain a firm grip on the mice. This action may continue for a month or so when it changes to the snap and release method.

    With few exceptions, the young snakes have been exceptionally good feeders once offered the larger mice. Force feeding had to be applied to the occasional undersized young but generally only for a short period.

    Coastal Taipan: Growth

    Growth can be extremely rapid and it was quite common for my specimens to exceed 1.7 metres (total) at 12 months of age and 2.1m at 24 months of age.

    The following tables relate to the growth of one individual over a three year period. All food was weighed before it was offered as a feed. The snake was measured at regular periods over the first 14 months and less regularly over the latter period. The snake was starved for a short period before weighing to ensure accurate body weights. The number of sloughs and the period between them were also recorded.

    The Coastal Taipan, Oxyuranus scutellatus, is the largest species from the elapid family of snakes in Australia. Some texts say it grows to over 300cm. Worrell (1963), for example, notes, “. . . Length may exceed ten feet; six feet is average”. However, none of the many specimens held in museum collections in Australia exceeds 300 cm.

    Professor Rick Shine, University of Sydney, measured all the Coastal Taipans in museum collections in the early 1980s. The largest one, a male, had a snoutvent length of 226 cm. This would have a total length of about 260 cm. No new extra-large Coastal Taipans were lodged in Australian museum research collections untill ‘Terrence’ died.

    Terrence was the ‘pet’ of Joe Sambono Jnr, a friend to herpetologists from the Queensland Museum. Terrence, with a snout-vent length of 242.5 cm and a total length of 290 cm, died after seven and a half years in captivity. He had been raised ‘out of the egg’, by Joe. Joe was very sad that Terrence had died. However, Joe’s curatorial friends at the Museum were elated to receive such a large specimen, when one was needed for the public display programme. When Terrence died, he weighed 6.2 kg. At 290 cm, he was the largest Coastal Taipan whose length was measured, not just estimated. The measurement can be checked by anyone interested, because the specimen is in the research collection of the Queensland Museum.

    At the Queensland Museum, Terrence was moulded and cast in a life-like pose for display. The cast, painted in exquisite detail by museum preparator Alison Hill, is now a feature of the exhibition, “Wildlife of Cape York Peninsula”. This can be seen in the Cooktown Interpretive Centre, overlooking the restored, historic botanic gardens in Cooktown, north-eastern Queensland.

    The Victorian Herpetological Society would like to thank the owner of the snake, Joe Sambono (pictured here with Terrence), the photographer, Simon Fearn and the Queensland Museum for allowing us to use material from their site.

    The taipan is one that was bred by Brian Barnett and supplied to Joe Sambono.

    Acknowledgments

    Keith Day ‘introduced’ me to the Taipan many years ago when I lived in Queensland. Roy Pails of Ballarat loaned me one of the breeding males when requested. Chris Banks of the Royal Melbourne Zoo gave advice when asked. Bruce and Keiron Howlett retyped the manuscript at short notice. I particularly thank my family Lani, Brett and Ty who have given up so much to allow me to pursue my interests in herpetology to such a degree.

    Literature Cited

    Banks, C.B. 1983. Breeding the Taipan at the Royal Melbourne Zoo. International Zoo Yearbook. 23. Barnett, B.F. 1978. Taipan. Newsletter of the Victorian Herpetological Society, 9:16-20. Barnett, B.F. 1980. Captive breeding and a novel egg incubation technique of the Children’s Python (Liasis childreni). Herpetofauna 11(2):15-18. Barnett, B.F. 1981 Artificial incubation of snake eggs. Monitor 1(2):31-39. Cogger, H.G. 1983 Reptiles and Amphibians of Australia (Revised Edition) A.H. and A.W. Reed. Sydney. Peters, U. (1973) Breeding of the Taipan (Oxyuranus scutellatus) in captivity. Bull. Zoo Man. 4(1):7-9. Shine, R. and J. Covacevich (1983) Ecology of highly venomous snakes: the Australian genus Oxyuranus (Elapidae). Journal of Herpetology, 17:60-69.

    Table Results (images):

    Table 1A-1B and Table 2

    Table 3 and Table 4

    Table 5 and Table 6

    The Coastal Taipan is a hardy snake in captivity and provided due respect is given to this extremely alert snake no unusual problems should be encountered.

    Darwin Carpet Python

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    Morelia spilota variegata or the Carpet Python

    Did you know...

    • Darwin carpet python dwells across the north ofAustralia.
    • Carpet python is common in urban parts of Darwin.
    • Adult Darwin carpet python eats mainly mammals, such as rats and possums.
    • Juvenile carpet python eat mainly lizards, such as skinks and geckos.

    Where Darwin Carpet Python can be found in Australia:

    Juvenile carpet python eat mainly lizards, such as skinks and geckos.

    Albino Darwin Carpet Python

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    Morelia spilota variegata or the Carpet Python

    Meet Tully. Tully is an albino Darwin Carpet Python. Tully's mum was found in a caravan park in Darwin about ten years ago. A resident of the caravan park saw Blondie one day. When the Parks and Wildlife Commission head about it they took Blondie to the Territory Wildlife Park. Albino animals are thought to be more visible to predators in the wild, so they are often caught and kept in captivity, carpet python is among them. Despite their supposedly more visible looks, adult albino animals are often found in the wild, showing that they can avoid predation and survive through to adulthood.

    Albinism is widespread through the animal kingdom. All sorts of albino animals have been found - insects, fish, reptiles, birds, mammals, and more. An albino animal can't make melanin. Melanin is a dark pigment that is produced and stored in the skin. For instance, when you spend a lot of time in the sun you get a sun tan. The darker coloration of your skin is due to an increase in the amount of melanin. The genetic fault that prevents albinos from properly producing melanin is heritable, meaning that an albino adult carpet python can pass the albino gene onto its offspring.

    Did you know...

    • Albino animals are thought to be more visible to predators in the wild, so they are often caught and kept in captivity.
    • An albino animal can't make melanin. Melanin is a dark pigment that is produced and stored in the skin. The genetic fault that prevents albinos from properly producing melanin is heritable, meaning that an albino adult can pass the albino gene onto its offspring.

    Where Albino Darwin Carpet Python can be found in Australia:

    Albinism is widespread through the animal kingdom, and the carpet python is no exception.

    For Beginners

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    Guide to Pythons

    by Andrew Owen

    Pythons are increasing in popularity as pets in Australia and many species are now available. Keeping native species as pets is a good option ecologically and if the animals’ basic needs are met they can thrive in captivity. And so, the following discussions (guide to pythons) are strongly recommended.

    Guide to Pythons: Housing

    Pythons should be kept individually in a secure enclosure made from thermally efficient material (material that holds heat well like wood or plastic, not a glass fishtank). A glass front allows for viewing your animal. The diagram below illustrates a  basic python set up and minimal requirements for a healthy animal.

    Guide to Pythons: Housing Hatchling/Juvenile Pythons

    If you purchase a hatchling/juvenile python keep it in a “click-clack” (small, secure container) inside your enclosure until it is an appropriate size for the enclosure - this could be up to a year. Too many people get impatient and put their small python in an enclosure too early, only to have the animal escape through gaps around glass & vents, etc!

    Guide to Pythons: Guide to enclosure size

    Guide to Pythons: Arboreal python

    (tree dwelling)

    Guide to Pythons: Terrestrial python

    (ground dwelling)

    Guide to Pythons: Length ¾ of snake length length Length of snake
    Width ½ of snake length ¾ of snake length
    Height Length of snake ½ of snake length

    Guide to Pythons: Substrate

    Choice of substrate (the material on the bottom of your enclosure) varies. Small gravel can look nice, but cleaning time is increased. Newspaper is hygienically and practically best but not as visually pleasing.

    Guide to Pythons: Feeding

    Before purchasing your python make sure it has been feeding on thawed mice or rats. You may think it is boring feeding your pet the same meal but a mouse or rat has all the nutrients needed. If a python is happily feeding don’t change things.

    Juveniles should be fed every 7-10 days, slowly increasing the size of the meal as your python grows. Adults should be fed a meal around 20% of their body weight every 2nd week (possibly more in summer and less or no food in winter). Pythons are predominantly nocturnal so feeding after dark is best. If your python refuses a feed, don’t be alarmed. Some don’t eat when they are about to shed and some will go off food in winter.

    Guide to Pythons: Drinking Water

    Drinking water should be available at all times to your Python. Refrain from simply topping up the water bowl as much as possible. A couple of times a week, remove the water bowl, empty & clean the bowl thouroughly, then re-fill with fresh water.

    Guide to Pythons: Shedding (Sloughing)

    Pythons shed their skin every couple of months or so, more frequently as they are growing. A sign of a healthy python in a good environment is its shed. A good, whole skin shed signals correct humidity and health. If a shed comes off in patches perhaps more cage furnishing with rough sections are required and more humidity. Greater humidity can be achieved by increasing the size of the water bowl or occasional light spraying of the enclosure with water. Any retained shed, in particular on the eyes and tail tip, must be removed.

    Guide to Pythons: Handling When a new animal is purchased, introduce it to its new home and leave it alone until it is feeding and comfortable in its surroundings. If your snake is about to shed (signaled by milky eyes) leave it alone until shedding is complete. The snake’s eye sight is poor at this time and handling is stressful. After a feed leave your python alone to digest its meal and if you usually feed your python at night it is advisable not to handle it at night.

    Arboreal python

    (tree dwelling)

    Terrestrial python

    (ground dwelling)

    Length ¾ of snake length length Length of snake
    Width ½ of snake length ¾ of snake length
    Height Length of snake ½ of snake length

    Guide to Pythons for Beginners will make the task easy

    Diamond Python

    Morelia-spilota-spilota-range.jpg

    Morelia spilota spilota or the Diamond Python

    Did you know...

    • The diamond python have the most southerly distribution of any Australian python, reaching as far south as Victoria.
    • Like all pythons, diamond python lays eggs which are then incubated and defended by the female. Once the young have emerged, the mum no longer cares for them.
    • These pythons are ambush predators with large home ranges that often overlap. They move around seasonally to occupy well-camouflaged positions or hibernate in winter months.

    Where Diamond Python can be found in Australia:

    The diamond python is one of the subspecies in the diamond/carpet python group.

    Aspects of Snakebite and Snake Venom Properties

    Snake Venom and Snakebites

    by Andrew McKenzie (Originally published in Monitor Vol 13 Issue 1 2004)

    Snake Venom: An Introduction

    The following article has been written to explain what happens to a bite recipient if they suspect they have been bitten by a potentially venomous snake. The issues investigated are as follows;

    i) How most bites occur, ii) What to do if bitten by a snake, iii) How venom affects the body, and; iv) Methodology in determining whether or not to administer antivenom

    Snake Venom: How Most Bites Occur

    Most snake bites involve the lower parts of the body, therefore, the lower leg and foot are commonly bitten. Some bites occur on the hands. Bites can occur when poking hands into hollow logs, under rocks or under common household or farmyard shelters such as sheets of tin. Bushwalking and walking through long grass are activities which can lead to people being bitten.

    Other bites occur when people attempt to injure or kill a snake that they have encountered. The bottom line is that in the majority of cases of snakebite, the snake is only trying to defend itself. It should be noted that snakebite in domestic and farmyard animals is also a common occurrence (Mirtschin, et al. 1998), but the bitten animals again have in most situations provoked the bite by attacking the snake themselves.

    Snake Venom: What To Do if Bitten by a Snake

    The most important thing to do if bitten by a snake is to keep calm and encourage others to do so as well so that you can focus on application of first aid and seeking medical attention as soon a possible.

    See the first aid description on the AVRU web site. The PI method is thought to slow the movement of lymph in the lymphatic system. This has never been proved but there is good evidence to support it. Snake venom is thought to move from the lymphatic system to the blood stream. There are some good references on this topic (see references I have included at end). What you should not do is wash or wipe the site where the bite is, as any venom on the skin surface is useful (but not critical).

    If at all possible do not drive a vehicle as you may collapse and cause an accident. An ambulance or another driver is advised. Finally, do not use drugs or consume alcohol as the effects of these may mimic the symptoms of venom in the bloodstream leading to administration of an antivenom where it is not really required. Antivenom is only given if venom is detected, or in its absence, if systemic envenomation is indicated by the symptoms.

    Snake Venom: How Venom Affects The Body

    Venom can affect the body in a variety of ways.

    In general, venom appears to be a mixture of enzymes and proteins that can act on several biochemical pathways or on a single physiological pathway within the body. The effects are characterised by:

    Neurotoxins:- which inactivate the nerve and smooth muscle function of the body by upsetting the sodium (Na+)and potassium (K+) channels required for neurotransmission and cardiac function. There are also ion channel blockers and inhibitors.

    Cytotoxins:- which affect the cells that come in contactwith the venom, either at the bite site or in the blood.

    Hemotoxins:- can either be toxins which affect haemostasis in some way (those that activate the clotting cascade, or inhibit its activation). Also there are toxins which cause haemorrhage (act on the blood vessels) and toxins that alter the shape of red blood cells.

    Myotoxins:- are toxins which break down muscle cells. They are usually PLA type molecules. Myoglobin from the muscle cells leaks into the blood and can cause myoglobinuria.

    The chemical proteins and enzymes that have been identified so far are:

    • L-arginine ester hydrolases, which breakdown the bodies amino acids.
    • Hyaluroniclase, which effects the hyaluronic acid production vital for connective tissue in the body.
    • L-amino acid oxidase, which also breakdown the bodies amino acids.
    • Cholinesterases destroy or block acetylcholine thus interfering with neurotransmission.
    • Phospholipases, which destroys phospholipids essential for cell walls.
    • Ribo and deoxyribonucleic oxidases, essential for the manufacturing of genetic material in the body.
    • ATPases, essential for energy production of cells within the body.

    Snake Venom: Methodology in Determining Antivenom Treatment

    As a medical scientist, one of my duties is to perform the venom identification testing on specimens, both animal and human, so that the correct antivenom treatment can be administered or in the case of livestock, insurance claims can be processed.

    At present, the Commonwealth Serum Laboratory (CSL) manufacture the only detection kit that is a rapid Enzymic Linked Immuno Sorbent Assay (ELISA) that takes approximately 25 minutes to perform. The kit is useful in identifying the correct antivenom to use in snake bites in Australia and Papua New Guinea. Specimens can be collected via bite site swabs in urine, blood or bodily tissue. In the detection process as a medical scientist, I have found that urine specimens are more accurate than blood as red cells from whole blood can give false positive readings if the reaction wells are not fully washed properly during the wash stage of the kit. Swabs may detect venom but envenomation may not necessarily have occurred.

    It is very important not to administer antivenom until venom has been detected, and the correct monovalent, i.e. serotype specific antivenom, can be administered. If the patient has been bitten and clearly showing signs of envenomation, a multipurpose polyvalent antivenom can be used. If identification is to be delayed, however, there may be some adverse effects. Dosages are usually required in higher amounts.

    The kit categories include five monovalent antivenoms each of which contain a number of snake venoms that the antivenom neutralises. These are as follows:-

    Tiger Snake: intended to neutralise Tiger Snake (Notechis scutatus), Copperhead (Austrelaps superbus), Red-bellied Black Snake (Pseudechis porphyriacus), and the Clarence River or Rough Scaled Snake (Tropidechis carinatus). Brown Snake: intended to neutralise Brown Snake (Pseudonaja textilis), Dugite (Pseudonaja affinis), and the Gwardar (Pseudonaja nuchalis).

    Black Snake: intended to neutralise King Brown or Mulga Snake (Pseudechis australis), Papuan Black Snake (Pseudechis papuanis), and the Red-bellied Black Snake (Pseudechis porphyriacus).

    Death Adder: intended to neutralise Death Adder (Acanthophis antarcticus), and the Desert Death Adder (Acanthophis pyrrhus).

    Taipan: intended to neutralise Taipan (Oxyuranus scutellatus) and the Small Scaled or Fierce Snake (Oxyuranus microlepidotus).

    The principal of the test is that a colour change will develop in a ‘well’ of the required antivenom thus allowing the choice of a specific monovalent antivenom.

    Antivenom is made by administering horse blood with snake venom in small amounts, which causes an immunological response by the blood to develop antibodies against the venom. The serum proportion of blood is then separated and freeze-dried. The product is reconstituted (liquefied) prior to use.

    Snake Venom: References:

    Bohinski, R.C. (1987), Modern concepts in Biochemistry, 5th Edition, Allyn & Bacon Inc, Massachusetts, USA. Brazaitis, P. & Watanabe, M.E. (1992), Snakes of the world, Michael Friedman Publishing Group, New York, USA. Curtis, H. (1983), Biology, 4Ih Edition, Worth Publishers inc, New York, USA. Ehmann, H. (1992), Encyclopedia of Australian Animals; Reptiles, Angus & Robertson Publishers Pty Ltd, Sydney, Australia. Rang, H.P., Dale, M.M., & Ritter, J.M.(1993), Pharmacology, 3rd Edition, Churchill Livingstone, Edinburgh, Scotland. Shine, R. (1994), Australian Snakes a natural history, Revised Edition, Reed Books, Chatswood, Australia. Slater, P. (1997), Amazing Facts about Australian Frogs and Reptiles, discover and learn, vol4, Steve Parish Publishing Pty Ltd, Fortitude Valley, Australia. Snake Venom Detection Kit; (kit insert), (1999), CSL Biosciences Department, Parkville, Australia. Mirtschin,P. J., Masci, P., Paton, D. C., Kuchel, T. (1998). Snake bites recorded by veterinary practices in Australia. Aust Vet J. 76: 3 195-1 98 Sutherland, S.K. (1992). Deaths from snake bite in Australia, 1981 -1 991. Med. J. Aust.. 157: 740-746 Sutherland, S. K. (1991). Snake Bites Patient Management Guide ERR: 62-63 Sutherland, S. K. (1990). Treatment of snake bite. Aust. Family Physician. 19: 1 1-1 3 Sutherland, S. K. (1974). Venomous Australian creatures: The action of their toxins and the care of the envenomated patient. Anaesth. Intens. Care. 11 :4: 31 6-328 Sutherland, S. (1983). First aid management of snakebite. Med. J. Aust. Feb 5: 106. Sutherland S. K., Duncan, A. W. (1980). New first-aid measures for envenomation. Med. J. Aust. April 19: 378- 379. Sutherland, S. K., Coulter, A. R., Harris, R. D. (1979). Rationalization of first-aid measures for Elapid  snakebite. The Lancet . Jan. 27: 183-1 86

    Snake Venom

    Woma Husbandry and Captive Breeding

    woma-photo.jpg

    Woma breeding: INTRODUCTION

    by Peter Krauss (Originally published in Thylacinus in 1992. Reprinted in Monitor Vol 6 Issue 1 1994)

    The Woma (Aspidites ramsayi) inhabits arid areas of the central and northern parts of Australia. At least two quite distinctive different forms of colouration and size occur in varying latitudes. Typically different examples are those from northern South Australia and those of the Tanami Desert in the Northern Territory. The northern form is cream with orange-brown bands, while the southern form is a uniform and drab brown colour. The northern Desert Woma reaches approximately 1.5m in length as an adult and the southern area form grows to double this size. Visually they bear little similarity as mature specimens.

    A group of Womas in my care for over 16 years initially consisted of one male and two females with another male included later after the first successful breeding occurred in 1985. The animals are the desert form found in the Tennant Creek area of the Northern Territory, and were juveniles when obtained.

    Woma breeding: FEEDING

    As adults the male specimen measured 1.4m in length and weighed 1300g, while the females were 1.5m long and weighed 2000g and 2300g respectively. Food was always accepted readily and consisted mainly of laboratory rats, either freshly killed or defrosted. During a period some years ago, young goslings were available and the male especially preferred this change to his diet. No food was offered during winter and feeding was strictly controlled and monitored during the warmer months. Obesity is not healthy and is definitely to be avoided if the animals are to breed. Feeding is always supervised to avoid accidental cannibalism. Proper feeding is important in woma breeding.

    Woma breeding: HOUSING

    Over the years the Womas occupied several different cages. Being a terrestrial snake, the cage should be low and reasonably spacious. My Womas occupied a cage of 2m x 1m x 0.5m high with a removable dividing partition in the middle. The front was made of sliding glass panels, and the sides and back of peg board to provide ample ventilation. The top and floor were constructed of industrial plywood. As a substrate for the floor of the cage I found bark chips most suitable. These should be a medium grade and not dusty. A depth of 80-100mm as covering on the floor provided best.

    Outside the mating season from August to April, I kept the male and females apart by dividing the cage into two sections. Feeding is also more easily supervised in this way. Each cage has its own hide box, a most important feature in any snake cage, and to completely fulfill its objective it must be correctly sized. When coiled up in this retreat, the python’s body should touch at least two opposite sides of the box, so that it feels secure. If two snakes occupy the cage, the hide box naturally needs to accommodate both specimens. The floor of the box is covered with paper to facilitate easy cleaning. This is an important factor to a successful woma breeding.

    In addition the floor of each cage section has a cover which can be placed on top of the bark chips. This cover is constructed of wood and masonite and measures 800mm x 400mm x 100mm high. It is closed on three sides allowing access through one open narrow side. The snakes spend a great deal of time under these covers resting and keeping out of sight.

    Each cage section has a 20 watt Vita-Lite lamp which is fitted to the back wall of the cage, approximately 200mm up from the floor. The hide box is also mounted to the rear inside wall of the cage and immediately above the light. Thus the warmth from the light heats the floor of the hide box and its close proximity to the floor provides ideal conditions for the effectiveness of the ultra-violet output of the light when the snake lays under it. As an additional heat source, each cage section is fitted with a 14 watt electrical heat pad which provides warmth for about 25% of the floor area. A successful woma breeding requires a sufficient space allocation.

    Light and heating is controlled by a time clock without a thermostat installed. During the months of April to August, at least on alternate days, all Womas were exposed to a 300 watt Osram Ultra-violet Sunlamp. This light is fitted on a tripod and can be directed at the snake after sliding the glass panel aside. Exposure time is only about 5-10 minutes at a distance of about 600mm from the snake. This procedure has the added benefit of showing off the snake in the ver bright light and thus allowing a thorough visual inspection and examination.

    Each cage section has a water container large enough for the Womas to lay in, but over many years I have never seen a Woma soak in water. Every 2-3 days the cage is sprayed with water and oftern it is then that the snakes drink directly from the nozzle of the pressure spray. Regular spraying of the substrate with water reduces the dust. Naturally the bark chips should be just slightly moist but never wet. Faeces, urine and sloughs are removed regularly.

    The construction of the building containing the snake cages was such that it provided ultimate climatic conditions. During the hottest time of the year all heating was turned off and lighting was provided for only about three hours in the morning. The metal roof of the building had skylight panels built into approximately 15% of its area and thus the room becomes very hot.

    During the summer months I had the roof covered with shade cloth and if necessary a sprinkler system on the roof was turned on. Temperatures range from 24°C minimum at night to 43°C maximum during the day. These temperature conditions reflected the climate experienced in my home district at the northern end of the Atherton Tablelands, approximately 60km inland from Cairns in north Queensland.

    Woma breeding: HOW TO BREED

    Usually during the first week of May I removed the cage divider to allow animals to be together. In most recent years when the young second male had reached well over one metre in length and weighed approximately 1200g, the older male, its father, frequently attempted to copulate with it.

    Cloacae were pressed together in the usual way but no insertion of hemipenis was observed. There actions looked so realistic that I was prompted to check again that they were both males. Usually mating by the original male with one of the females occurred within hours of the divider being removed and lasted 6-8 hours. The male would then coil up by himself away from the females. At 38 months of age the young male was apparently not sexually mature, because it never showed sexual interest in the females. The adult male would always service both females, however, he seemed to favour one or the other at various times. When this was noticed I usually controlled access in order to ensure fertilization of both females.

    If you're into woma breeding, you should know that these snakes are at times biennial breeders but there does not seem to be a regular pattern to this behaviour. Females seem to engage in mating activities with the male every year, but do not regularly develop eggs. They may breed in two consecutive years and then miss a year.

    Each time a copulation with insertion of the hemipenis was clearly observed and noted I separated the male from the females again. After about 48 hours, reintroduction usually resulted in immediate mating once again. Copulation took place regularly from the first week in May until the first week in July. By this time very careful examination of the female Womas usually revealed egg development. Just by holding the snake and allowing it to move from one hand to the other with fingertips held against the belly, I was able to detect eggs forming.

    One month later, if the female was gravid, egg shapes were visible. By early September the gravid Woma would rest with two thirds of her body either on its side or completely upside down. At this stage I provided an additional heat source with a 40 watt spotlight which was operated by time clock for three hours each morning. Particularly during the last weeks prior to egg laying the gravid snakes would often bask under this light for lengthy periods of time. I consider such a basking facility very important for the healthy development of the eggs. The female at this stage rests with her body partially upside down most of the day - and always at night the eggs had moved down to the lower part of the body.

    As the latter half of September approached a site was selected by the female and prepared for egg laying. This usually happened under the cover on the floor of the cage. The snake started hollowing out a spot in the bark chips by moving her body in a circular motion. She moved all the bark chips aside and eventually rested on the cage floor. During the last days the female could often be heard thrashing with her body under the covers as she moved in a circular and concentric motion.

    The eggs were usually laid during the last week in September. The other female was often one month later with her developments. Egg numbers ranged from 8-10 and fertility was 90-100%. The process of actually laying the eggs took the female 2.5-3 hours with a clutch of eight eggs. Eggs averaged 85gm in weight and 78mm in length. In clutches of ten eggs weight and size were marginally less. The eggs were removed as they were laid for the purposes of incubation in an electric incubator. This was done after each individual egg had dried and before it became attached to another egg orto any substrate matter.

    My incubator was a modified Swan poultry incubator. It had an extra backup thermostat fitted and it featured a small electronic fan for air distribution. I am incubating most reptile eggs by the no-substrate method and find this the best way for my purposes. Eggs are placed on paper towelling on top of a mesh grid of plastic or stainless steel which is suspended over water, approximately 20-30mm deep, in a plastic container. This plastic container is fitted with an air tight lid which is transparent for easy observation of the eggs. Whilst I found it unnecessary to ever open the egg boxes, I did on occasions open the lid briefly and even changed the paper once or twice during the incubation period. This method maintains a steady 100% humidity at all times.

    Experiments have shown that healthy embryos will survive and hatch even if bad and decaying eggs have not been removed. This seems especially remarkable if the container remains sealed during the entire incubation time. If all is well and the fan in the incubator functions constantly there should be very little or no condensation on the inside walls and lid of the egg boxes. If at any time an egg shows the typical signs of being dead it is advisable to remove it. This is no problem if eggs are harvested singularly and placed separately in the plastic box. If this is not possible and the eggs are in a clutch, where all are attached, it is wiser to leave a spoiled egg rather than risking damage to other eggs by trying to remove it.

    At a temperature of 29-30° C, hatching started on the 75th day, however at 31° C, hatching began on the 60th day. The average weight of the neonates was 45gm and their length was 320mm. The young snakes slough for the first time after 10-12 days. They feed readily on pup mice and are best kept separately for better supervision and record keeping.

    Woma breeding: CONCLUSION

    The Woma is a snake which demands a lot of attention from its keeper. Working with this interesting python has been most gratifying over the years. My plans for second generation breeding, maternal incubation etc, will not be possible. Due to unfortunate circumstances these animals are no longer in my care.

    Woma breeding: ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

    To Malcolm Thompson for converting my scribbled notes into readable English and Brian Barnett and Simon Kortlang for reading the manuscript and making valuable suggestions. My former associates and partners Margit and Karin Cianelli made it possible to work with these animals in the first place and provided expert help over many years. Cam Whiteing skilfully drew the original sketches and Amy Andersen kindly typed the various drafts.

    Woma breeding

    Coastal Carpet Python

    Morelia-spilota-mcdowelli-range.jpg

    Morelia spilota mcdowelli or the Coastal Carpet Python

    Perhaps Australia's best-known python, the name Carpet Python actually refers to a number of different subspecies, each found in a separate geographic location. Coastal carpet python snakes are probably the most common snake found in and around Brisbane. They do an excellent job of keeping the rat population down. Adult carpet snakes can get up to 4 metres long. At this size they feed on large possums, and maybe even unwary cats.

    During the mating season, several males will often aggregate around a single female and fight with each other to see who gets to mate with her. Female coastal carpet Python lay from 5 to 50 eggs, with larger females laying proportionately more eggs. As with other Australian pythons, the female will curl around her eggs mass while the eggs are incubating, but will not care for the young after they've hatched. The row of pits on the lower jaw are heat sensitive organs, enabling the python to sense warm-blooded prey in total darkness.

    Did you know...

    • The coastal carpet python is probably the most common snake found in and around Brisbane.
    • Adult carpet snakes can get up to 4 metres long. At this size they feed on large possums, and maybe even unwary cats.
    • During the mating season, several males will often aggregate around a single female and fight with each other to see who gets to mate with her.
    • Female carpet python lay from 5 to 50 eggs, with larger females laying more eggs.
    • As with other Australian pythons, the female will curl around her eggs mass while the eggs are incubating, but will not care for the young after they've hatched.

    Where do theCoastal Carpet Python dwell in Australia:

    Coastal Carpet Python

    Keeping and Breeding Diamond Pythons

    Adult-Male-Diamond-Python.jpg

    Breeding Diamond Pythons: Introduction

    Images and Text by Rob Sullivan

    Let me start by stating the obvious. There is probably dozens of ways to go about keeping and breeding Diamond Pythons or any python for that matter, this is what works for me.

    Over time I have chatted with a fair few breeders, not just diamond breeders but python breeders in general and come up with a medley from all the information I collected.

    Like most keepers, I started out with a Diamond Python, then another, then a few more. There is something about this animal that just seems to catch a lot of enthusiasts like me, into wanting to have them in my collection. It might be their graceful nature or their lovely coloration or simply the cluster of rosettes that just mesmerize you. I’m not sure, but out of all the snakes I have kept these are the ones at the top of my list.

    Breeding Diamond Pythons: Housing

    I simply keep mine housed in an enclosure 1200 x 600 x 600mm x 3 banks high (old scale; 4 x 2 x 2ft) unit that butts up to another unit the same size with a sliding door in between, a mirror image type look. I can either open the sliding door so there is a 2400 (8ft) long unit for roaming or I can simply drop the slide in to separate for feeding or for a period of time during breeding. I find this type of unit handy at cleaning times as you can just have the snake up one end, clean the unit at the other end without having to have extra tubs floating around to keep your reptile in whilst cleaning.

    Light and heat is provided through a 40w basking lamp and floor heating from the unit below, with each unit being able to be isolated individually.

    I aim for 28 degrees at the basking spot and depending on the ambient temperature the cooler end averages 25 degrees in the peak of the day. I use a 40w basking globe in my enclosure but obviously that may not suit your enclosure as every area a person lives in is different so some homework needs to be done to get what suits individuals needs.

    Breeding Diamond Pythons: Feeding

    Our adult females and males are fed every 14 days on 200g rats, quail or rabbits. *Note for yourself “they seem to really love rabbits”. I have never seen so much excitement as when a Diamond Python checks out a rabbit. They hit it that hard you nearly lose the feeding tongs with the rabbit. Proper feeding is important with breeding diamond pythons.

    Come the end of January our females feed every 7 days as I believe new body fats need to be available for their egg development period.

    The males will stay as they are all year round except when cooling as I prefer to keep them leaner so they are/should be a bit more enthusiastic and not lazy when introductions are started. Hatchlings up to juveniles are fed every 7 to 10 days on appropriate sized rats.

    Breeding Diamond Pythons: Brumation

    Brumation or winter cooling is for me started at the end of April. Towards the end of April the average night temperature (in Victoria) is around 6 degrees with mid 20 degree days, so the ambient temperatures are ideal for the cooling period to start. As I said earlier, we run a basking light with a thermostat during summer in order to prevent over heating even in a cooled house.

    During winter no thermostat is used. We basically just run the basking for heating from 8am to 3pm; it takes some 2 to 3 hours for the enclosure to heat up that’s why we start it at 8am. The basking spot gets to 26 to 28 degrees between about 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock. Our diamonds seem to love these conditions and move between the basking spot and cool end several times a day. 3pm is the cut off time for the basking light because when I lived in Ulladulla on the east coast of NSW the temperature started to cool down in the winter around this time. The way our units are setup I keep Bredli underneath the female diamonds, as the heat from their unit rises and acts as floor heating so no night heat is required.

    I might add that the herp room has windows at either end so natural lighting hours are achieved from when the sun comes up until when it goes down. I don’t seem to worry about 3 hours of this and 4 hours of that, in the wild the sun comes up and the sun goes down.

    We do not offer food during brumation, our feeding stops at the end of April and resumes in the middle of August.

    Breeding Diamond Pythons: The Process

    The female generally has a pre breeding shed in mid to late August and the introductions start at the beginning of September; I’ve tried earlier but never any success.

    I use 2 males at any one time; I try to give 1 male 2 days with the female prior to introducing the next male. Then the 3 are together for 2 days until the first male is taken out and the second stays with the female 2 more days before being removed. So a 6 day event for 1 female which during this time at least 2 matings generally would have occurred. From my observations the females seem to choose which male they are receptive to so really a choice is made by the female even though the male is the one searching for the female. I can’t recall ever seeing a second male breed with the female, I’m not saying it doesn’t happen, just I have never seen this happen.

    After each 6 day breeding session small food items are offered to the female. Food is offered after each mating session until she refuses, which generally would determine that the female has become gravid. From our records females are generally refusing food at the start of November.

    We supply a nesting box with a hole cut in the top for access and a thick layer of paper kept moist at approximately day 20 after a pre lay shed. We used a plastic tub with a hole in the side one year and ended up with more sphagnum moss in the enclosure than in the tub, what a pain! The gravid female will spend the majority of her time in the box coming out a few times over the day to bask for a short time then returning to her nesting box.

    Breeding Diamond Pythons: Incubation

    We have noticed that our females are more active in the last couple of days prior to egg laying than any other period whilst she has been gravid - she just seems to be restless. Our excitement has also grown so the female diamond is not the only one that is restless; especially overnight when most of our females have laid we are up every couple of hours checking them out.

    On collection of the eggs for artificial incubation a towel is placed over the female to assist collection. Sometimes we collect the eggs as they come out and other times she is left alone to finish the lay. It just depends on the female and where the eggs lay, sometimes it is just too stressful on the female and she is left alone. We have separated and left clumps together with no ill effects either way; however we have been fortunate never to have had bad eggs in the bottom of a clump.

    Artificial incubation is done by using an esky, heat cord, thermometer/hygrometer and a dimming thermostat.

    A container of sufficient size is used to house the eggs for the next 30 days. Vermiculite and water mixed at 50/50 weight is used, aiming for a layer approximately 30-40mm deep. Simply, this is one of those "careful" stages in breeding diamond pythons.

    I measure temperatures in the incubator and the humidity in one of the containers aiming for 31 degrees and 99%+ humidity. It has not been too often I have had to add water to lift the humidity. The containers are set up well in advance; I find condensation builds up until the container has reached the incubator temperature.

    A week before the eggs slit open there are noticeable changes with the eggs starting to collapse. Not long now!

    At 35 days I slit the eggs myself if there is no sign of the little ones slitting them. They have been known to drown in their own fluids by not having an egg tooth to slit the egg themselves, so the process is done for them.

    Breeding Diamond Pythons: Hatchlings

    Once the hatchlings’ heads are poking out it will generally take a few days for them to come out completely. Once one starts the others follow suit.

    When they are completely out of their eggs they are removed to their new home. Food is not offered until a week after their first shed which is generally after 7 to 10 days. We start them off by just leaving a pinky mouse on the floor of their tub. Some take it straight away, some are more reluctant. No force is needed with diamonds from what I have found, just a heap of patience. After 2 feeds on pinky mice we start them on new born pinky rats, after that there is no stopping them.

    Breeding Diamond Pythons

    Jungle Carpet Python

    Morelia-spilota-cheynei-range.jpg

    Morelia spilota cheynei or the Jungle Carpet Python

    Adult Jungle Carpet Python feeds largely on mammals (such as possums and fruit bats) and birds. The hatchlings prey mainly on small lizards. During the warmer months these snakes are largely nocturnal, meaning they are active at night. During cooler weather they can be found on the move in the warmer daytime.

    During the mating season, several males will often aggregate around a single female and fight with each other to see who gets to mate with her. Female Carpet Pythons will lay from 5 to 50 eggs, with larger females laying more eggs. As with other Australian pythons, the female will curl around her eggs mass while the eggs are incubating, but will not care for the young after they've hatched. The row of pits on the lower jaw are heat sensitive organs, enabling the python to sense warm-blooded prey in total darkness.

    Did you know...

    • Jungle Carpet Pythons are found on the tablelands and ranges of north-eastern Queensland.
    • The adult jungle carpet python feeds largely on mammals (such as possums and fruit bats) and birds.
    • During the mating season, several male jungle carpet pythons will often aggregate around a single female and fight with each other to see who gets to mate with her.
    • The female carpet pythons lay from 5 to 50 eggs, with larger females laying more eggs.
    • As with other Australian pythons, the female jungle carpet python will curl around her eggs mass while the eggs are incubating, but will not care for the young after they've hatched.

    Where Jungle Carpet Python can be found in Australia:

    Jungle Carpet Python

    Centralian Carpet Python

    Morelia-spilota-bredli-range.jpg

    Morelia spilota bredli or the Centralian carpet python

    The Centralian Carpet Python is found in the deep rock crevices, caves and tree hollows in central Australia. These shelters provide not only a hiding place for the snake, but also provide homes for the food supply of the centralian carpet python - rodents and birds. Females lay 10 to 50 eggs and then curl around them for about 70 days. By staying with the eggs the female python not only protects them, she can also keep them warm.

    Growing up to 2.6 metres, the centralian carpet python closely relates to other carpet pythons. In fact, some herpetologists (people who study reptiles and amphibians) classify them as the same species. This snake is also called a Bredl's python, after Joe Bredl (an Australian herpetologist).

    Did you know...

    • The centralian carpet python grows up to 2.6 metres long.
    • This python is found in the deep rock crevices, caves and tree hollows in central Australia.
    • The centralian carpet pythons is closely related to other carpet pythons. In fact, some herpetologists classify them as the same species.
    • Females lay 10 to 50 eggs and then curl around them for about 70 days. By staying with the eggs the female python not only protects them, she can also keep them warm.

    Where to find Centralian Carpet Python in Australia:

    Centralian Carpet Python

    Scrub Python

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    Morelia kinghorni or the Scrub Python

    Also known as the Amethyst or Amethystine Python, the Scrub Python is probably the largest species of snake in Australia. Specimens up to 8.5 metres long have been reported, but 5 metres is a more average length. They are found in tropical lowlands, slopes and tablelands with rainforests and vine thickets. Scrub Pythons rest in tree hollows and forks, under fallen logs on the forest floor, and in cracks and crevices among rocks.

    The Scrub Python eats mammals and birds. Because of their large size they are able to take large prey, including wallabies and tree kangaroos.

    After mating the female will stop eating, and often bask with her belly facing up towards the sun. When ready, she'll lay up to about 19 eggs and then coil around them. If the eggs get too cold she can shiver to raise their temperature.

    As with most pythons, the Scrub Python has a row of heat pits on their lower jaw. These are able to detect very small changes in temperature, enabling the python to find warm-blooded prey even in complete darkness. These heat pits complement the snake's forked tongue, and make up for their less-than-perfect vision.

    Did you know...

    • The scrub python is probably the largest species of snake in Australia. Specimens up to 8.5 metres long have been reported, but 5 metres is a more average length.
    • Because of their large size they are able to take large prey, including wallabies and tree kangaroos. Scrub pythons are also known as the amethyst or amethystine python.
    • After mating the female will stop eating, and often bask with her belly facing up towards the sun.
    • Scrub python has a row of heat pits on their lower jaw. These are able to detect very small changes in temperature, enabling the python to find warm-blooded prey even in complete darkness.

    Where the Scrub Python dwells in Australia:

    Scrub Python

    Rough-scaled Python

    Morelia-carinata-range.jpg

    Morelia carinata or the Rough-scaled Python

    Did you know...

    • Rough-scaled python was only scientifically recognized in 1981.
    • The Rough-scaled Python was found in a very remote part of the Western Australian Kimberley region.
    • The Rough-scaled Python is unique among Australian pythons in having keeled (rough) scales.
    • Living in such a remote environment has made studying this snake in the wild almost impossible. As such:

    - their diet in the wild is unknown, but birds may be a large part of it. - the function of the keeled scales is unknown, but may help the snakes wedge themselves into crevices.

    Where Rough-scaled Pythons dwell in Australia:

    Rough-scaled Python

    Olive Python

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    Liasis olivaceus or the Olive Python

    The Olive Python is sometimes confused with the Water Python, or (often to its detriment) the venomous Mulga Snake. On closer inspection they are very different looking animals. The Olive Python grows to a length of 4 metres, with those from the Pilbara region in Western Australia reaching even greater lengths. The back is a pale fawn to rich brown or dull olive brown in colour, while the belly is a light cream. The lips are pale, finely dotted with grey or brown. 

    The Olive Python is found in the drier parts of northern Australia, from northwestern Western Australia to western Queensland. They seem to be more abundant amongst the rocky hills and ranges. The length and weight of an adult Olive Python restricts its climbing to only the largest trees and rocky outcrops. As with all pythons, the Olive Python does most of its hunting at night time, feeding on rats, birds, and wallabies.

    The female Olive Python can deposit up to 24 eggs per clutch. She will then wrap her coils around these eggs and produce a suitable microenvironment to aid in their hatching.

    Did you know...

    • The length and weight of an adult olive python restricts its climbing to only the largest trees and rocky outcrops.
    • The olive python grows to a length of 4 metres, with those from the Pilbara region in Western Australia reaching even greater lengths.
    • The olive python is sometimes confused with the water python, or (often to its detriment) the venomous mulga snake. On closer inspection they are very different looking animals.
    • The female olive python can deposit up to 24 eggs per clutch. She will then wrap her coils around these eggs and produce a suitable microenvironment to aid in their hatching.

    Where to find Olive Pythons in Australia:

    Olive Python